CyberDERM-The What's What in Beauty

KENETIA LEE, celebrity make-up artist, talks about the Golden Globes and beauty in Hollywood

2012-02-01T08:58:00.000-05:00

We were so lucky this month that KenetiaLee, a celebrity make-up artist who was backstage at this year’s Golden Globes,sat down with Karina for a quick chat. Theyare old friends from Karina’s days in Hollywood and she shared some absolutelycrazy stories! Thanks Kenetia!

Some facts about Kenetia:

Born in: Chicago, Illinois

Lives: NYC/LA

Profession: RedCarpet Celebrity makeup artist/ beauty activist

Website: www.kenetia.com

Uses all types of makeup – some of her favorites:

o Jane Iredale professional palette.

o Stila gel cheek color

o Make Up For Ever base colors

Karina: What are some of the make-up trends for thisseason and what are you seeing in colours and fashion?

Kenetia: More actresses are now 40+. Tips: Do not bring attention to lower eyeinstead try for more emphasis with liner on upper lid and fuller lashes. Choosesofter colors for cheeks and lips. People are going for a more naturallook … less is more! Especially as weage.

Karina: What do you think was the best style moment atthe Golden Globes?

Kenetia: I’m torn – 2 people stood out: Angelina Jolie wasstatuesque and Jane Fonda stunning. I loved Jane’s black sheer lace gown.

Karina: Tell us your craziest moment you have had inHollywood.

Kenetia: I don’t want to mention any names for obviousreasons. I once had to apply makeup on asinger preparing for an interview who was trying to recover from the previousnight festivities. She was not feeling very well so I ended up applying hermakeup while the singer was lying on the floor. A moment I will not soon forget!!

Karina: Overall most memorable moment at the GoldenGlobes…

Kenetia: After MorganFreeman had won the Cecil B. Demille Lifetime Achievement Award, we ran intoeach other while he was walking back stage for his interview. He just stared inmy eyes and said to me, "you give beautiful face." Then moved in torub noses with me. A special moment.”

Karina: Nicest celebrity you have met in Hollywood…

Kenetia: There are a few that stand out such as OctaviaSpencer (The Help), Jennifer Hudson (American Idol, Sex and the City), andMariah Carey who was a makeup artist before becoming a singer. Also Lucy Liu (Ally McBeal, Charlie’s Angels)-who always has beautifully applied makeup. They were all wonderful.

Karina: What is the biggest skincare/make-up concernfor celebrities?

Kenetia: Flawless skin – they obsess about it!

Karina: Tell us the most common make-up mistake yousee people make.

Kenetia: People try to follow trends instead of doing whatis best for them. They want to use trendy colors that are not necessarily goodfor their skin tone. My advice is toalways go with what looks best for you and to accentuate your best features.That is what make-up is supposed to do!

Karina: what are people in LA doing in terms of beingtanned versus protecting their skin?

Kenetia: I’ve seen a lot of people that are looking“crunchy” with an orange color that looks over-baked. I think people are usingself -tanners that are leaving their skin with an orange tint. St-Tropez is agreat line of self-tanners that doesn’t leave your skin orange.

Karina: What are some tips for being photo-ready onbig nights out?

Kenetia: Celebrities obviously have their own personal make-upartists at hand and ready for events and parties. Make sure to prep the skin – getfacials/peels to make sure that your skin is healthy and properly hydrated.Your natural glow will show up through the makeup! Also, it is important toensure that your foundation is properly matched to your skin tone. Get yourcolors checked every now and then as your skin tone does change over the years.

Karina: Final tips and words of advice?

Kenetia: I just want to re-iterate that it is important togo with what works with your tone and features. If you have good cheekbonesthen accentuate them! For the women 40 and over make sure that your eye makeuplifts the eyes. Never apply liner to the lower lid and [good] brows areessential for framing the face. You need to ensure your brows are always properlysculpted by a professional.

Again- big thanks toKenetia and Karina for their words of wisdom. Celebrities keep things interesting- don’t they?

Best,

Sara

The Prevention versus Correction Dilemma: How Young is too Young?

2011-12-15T14:23:00.002-05:00

I am lucky that my mother gets to be a mentor/skin careguru/ world famous physician all wrapped in one package (for those who do notknow, Dr. Sharyn “First Lady of Lasers” is my mom- I’m very lucky andproud!). ‘Mommisms’ are therefore also‘doctorisms’ and I don’t just take them with a grain of salt- I actually followthem to the tee. So when she says, “it is all maintenance after40”, I don’t question it. I do not thinkany woman who is 40+ would argue either.

It gets a little fuzzy, however, when you consider what youshould do before the age of 40. We areall in agreement that toddlers in tiaras should refrain from getting Botox buthow about a 25 year old? That’s when itgets interesting. I’m 28 and I just gotmy first Botox tx for frowning this year. I didn’t really think twice about it and I’m fairly honest about it ifasked. I also know that some maydisapprove (they may or may not be able to frown while doing it). There is an emotional element to the debatebut for this blog we are going to examine some of the practical considerations.

First off, I thought I would attempt to calculate an ROI of prevention versus correction.In 2006, a physician did a study comparing two identical twins to see whether Botox had a preventative effect on wrinkles. It did, as you can see in the pictures below.

It’s a good case study since the twin on the right had hadBotox for 13 years prior, starting in her mid-twenties, and the twin on theleft did basically nothing. So we havetwo twins at the 40-year-old milestone and we can fairly assess the costs andthe benefits of preventative versus corrective measures. I then presented the pictures of each twinseparately to nurses who give cosmetic consults and asked them to set out apossible treatment plan with associated costs.

Treatment plan for the Correction Twin (Twin on the Left):

1st. Good skincare: for the mornings use zinc oxide sunscreen, AM Hydrating Whip $38, eveningto alternate retinoic acid, Differin 0.1% (by prescription) with antioxidantnight cream, Cyberderm PM Anti-Age $125

2^nd.Botox: to open eyes and lift eyebrows 37 units @ $12/unit

3^rd.Photofacials 1-3 treatments done 1 month apart $350/tx to even out skin tones-red and browns.

Totalassociated cost with Correction: $1657 for this series of treatments

Treatment planfor the Prevention Twin (Twin on the Right):

1^st.Good skin care: use AM Hydrating Whip $38, evening to alternate Differin 0.1%(by prescription) with Cyberderm PM Anti-Age $125

2. Continueduse of Botox at roughly 37 units @ $12/unit

Total cost ofPrevention: $607 for this series of treatment

Of course, youthen have to add the cost of 13 years of Botox treatments to the PreventionTwin’s total costs to give an accurate assessment. When calculated at roughly $444 for every 3-4months for 13 years, you get an additional cost of a number that is tooterrifying to actual put in print. Really, I deleted the actual number after having written it since somenumbers are better in abstraction- like your shoe budget.

Needless tosay, the cost analysis wins out in the favour of correction. My mom also assured me that with the state oftechnology in dermatology you can correct most issues to the same baseline asprevention. In other words, theCorrection twin could look as good as her Prevention sister after about a yearof jabs, zaps and yikes’. Again,correction seems to be winning.

However, justto sway the argument in favour of prevention a little, there are someadditional factors to consider. One isthe pain factor. For however much beautyyou need to regain, you can increase the pain factor as well as the amount ofdowntime involved. It’s the equivalentof going to the gym regularly over a lifetime versus having to go on theBiggest Loser and having Jillian Michaels yell in your face. There is also the psychological boon of notbeing defined by your facial lines- imagine the difference in your quality oflife if for 13 years you did not have people asking you whether you’re tired orsick or worried (when you actually had 10 hours sleep the night before and youare having a great day). Some feel asthough their wrinkles were hard earned. Other’s feel as though they want to tell a different life story and donot want their wrinkles to do the talking. It is a personal choice.

So to end, Ithought I would pass on some mommism’s that are applicable to everyone nomatter how you feel about the prevention/correction debate:

1. Goodskin care is great at any age- no one is going to give you a hard time aboutapplying your sunscreen.

2. Ifyou are going to seek some more intensive cosmetic intervention, find a doctorwho has a mother’s love for your face. In other words, you do not want someone who is going to re-mould youinto their idea of beauty. You want someonewho can see past the long nights and moments of worry but sees the real you.

3. Stickby your choices and let other’s have room to make their own.

Greetings in the New Year!

SSara

The Best of the 'Others' 2011

2011-11-30T12:58:00.001-05:00

Usladies at CyberDERM really do use our line of products and believe in themwhole-heartedly. I call them my skin powerhouses because they deliver everysingle day. We also are pretty steadfast in our commitment to other great linesthat we carry. I vow that using Jane Iredale mineral bases has changed myperception of make-up forever. Having said that, we are people too andcan have a wandering eye when it comes to beauty products that we do not carryin the store. Most of us are beauty ‘early adopters’ and like to give thelatest and greatest a try. I have personally tested vibrating mascarawands and UV nail polish for this very same blog.

Inlight of a new year approaching and the holiday shopping season, Karina, ourmake-up artist, and myself decided to share some of our other favourites foundin pharmacies, department stores or your local spa/salon. Maybe they willinspire you to try something new or share with us things you have tried- eitherway. Just don’t forget about the classics, the ones that will always be good toyou and for you.

Bestin Hair Care:

Sara:Kevin Murphy’s Forever Young (Treatment Oil)

Iwas one of the first to jump on the Moroccan Hair Oil bandwagon. I stillthink it is a great product but my hair stylist in Toronto used thissilicone-based treatment on my hair damp and then as a finishing product. He explained that with silicone there is good and then there is bad interms of quality. This is good and will not get gritty if used with a good hairspray. It also smells like a dream- a natural type of spicy/woodsythat replaces perfume for me.

Karina:Mixed Chicks (Shampoo, Conditioner, leave-in )

My daughter has the most beautiful cork screwcurls. She also has lots of hair and as we know curly hair tends to be dryer. I had tried everything from the most expensive to the most affordable-nothing worked: not hydrating enough, too much hold, not enough hold, nofrizz control etc.. Mixed chicks cleanses, hydrates and the leave-inholds the curl in place with no frizz and most importantly no crunch! It has a veryfresh scent and gives soft luxurious movable curls. If you have a slightwave, or ringlets or corkscrew curls-this is a great product. Enjoy!

Bestin Eye Wear:

Sara:Nars Larger than Life Long Lasting Eyeliner

Ilove Nars for their amazing colours. I can’t speak to the quality oftheir formulations but for times when you want pops of colour or something thatreflects the trend of the season- Nars is great! I use a colour called Bourbonstreet, which is this neo-bright purple with a slight metallic highlight to it. It is perfect for green/hazel eyes when you are going for something a little bit more street. I do have to give Jane Iredale praise for this season- they also have similar more trendy hues but they tend to be softer/prettier on application.

Karina:L’ Oreal Telescopic (in gold tube)

Ibeen using Lancome Definicils for over 20 years until a friend of mineintroduced me to L’Oreal Telescopic. I’m in love! It separates, thickens and especially lengthens. It gives the lashes an almost stiletto heel effect, i.e. a slight tapering towards the ends. It does take a little bit more attention to detail when applying- you cannot just swipe and go. But the payoff is beautiful lashes at a fraction of the price andwho doesn't like to save a bit of money.

Bestin Pretty Pouts:

Sara:Bobbi Brown Creamy Lip Colour (Lipstick) and Crest 3D White Strips(Professional Effects)

I’ma cheater- I have two! Bobbi Brown makes a pretty impressive lipstick. My friend gave me one as a birthday gift and it had this great creamytexture that meant it did not kiss/wipe off immediately. You can feel the shea butter in it for sure-having said that you need to have moisturized lips to apply it since thetexture would emphasize chapped ones. My other recommendation is a little outside thebeauty box- but nothing makes your lip colour shine better than white teeth. I preferred these strips to my professional ones made by my dentist sinceI found they really clung to my teeth. It took about ten packs before Isaw a good difference but I was really happy. Just make sure to payattention to the instructions- stick with the 30 min. time frame. You doget teeth sensitivity. If you try and max out their potential by leavingthem on for longer- a stiff wind will feel like the Titanic hitting an icebergon your teeth.

Karina: Lip Fusion Lip Plumpers

Thisis also cheating because we carry this line but I absolutely love the entireLip Fusion line- from soft subtle colors to a bold and in-your-face pout. There is a slight tingling sensation when first applied but I don’t mindthat at all. It comes in clear to pair up with your favorite lipcolor. It’s not too sticky or drying and it’s the perfect balance ofgloss, color and plumping power. A few of my favorite colors includeSugar, Angelic, Crave and Lollipop!

What's Your Skin Type?

2011-11-01T13:22:00.002-04:00

In my experience, people tend to repeatto themselves their skin type like it is their own personal mantra, “I have dryskin. I have dry skin. I have dry skin.” It may be a conclusion that they cameto as a teenager and one that they subsequently have never challenged. The fact remains that skin is as alive as you are. It’s dynamic andwill age, and can even change year to year.

There are a host of reasons for thesechanges. Your skin reflects different life-stages from puberty, topregnancy to menopause. We see a lot of women who are confounded by theiradult acne when they managed to be relatively clear as teenagers (it’s mostlikely red acne with the telltale sign being breakouts around the chin). You also have to consider lifestyle changes. (starting to smoke, drinkingalcohol, moving to a new city with a different climate). Chronic and acute stress is hard on yourimmune system and can cause your acne, psoriasis, eczema and rosacea to flare. Medicationscan also dramatically alter your skin for years after you have taken them. The most obvious example is Accutane, which temporarily shuts down youroil glands in the skin and acne is in remission for 3-5 years. Others include-the birth control pill Depo Provera and implants can cause cystic acne and medicationused for treating infertility can cause excessively dry flaking skin. The important point to note is that it isalways helpful to re-assess your skin periodically and tailor your skincareroutine accordingly.

The most basic litmus test for gettinga sense of your skin type is the oil-check:

• If even after you have washed your face you are oily bynoon, you have oily skin.

• If you notice in most pictures you are shiny right betweenyour eyebrows, you most likely have an oily t-zone and combination skin.

• If you feel dry all day, you could either be dehydrated,rough or just have dry skin. The end result of all of these conditions isthe same, i.e. dry feeling skin but the causes are different. Dehydratedskin is due to some external factor like over-stripping the skin or just notdrinking enough water. Generally dry skin is a hereditary condition andprobably something you have noticed for a long time. Rough skin is veryoften confused with both of the other conditions and also commonly getsmistaken with having sensitive skin. Rough skin is just a build-up ofdead cells and with gentle exfoliation will reveal softer, more hydrated skin. Sensitive/dry skin normally feels more sore to the touch and can bepainfully cracked and broken.

With all skin types, there are certainuniversal Do’s and Don’ts. A skincare professional can help create a moretailored routine but if they suggest any of the following Don’ts, I wouldconsider them red flags:

• Don’t over-strip with abrasive scrubs. Physicalexfoliation like revolving brushes blindly remove living and dead cells and canbe overkill. I can always sense that someone has been indoctrinated intothe psyche of overkill when I suggest using a mild cleanser like Cetaphil andthey get this panicked look over whether their skin will truly be clean enough. Great skin is not about removing every trace of oil and dirt in yourpores. Some trace amounts of oil in your skin are necessary. Cleansingoils are becoming more en vogue every day and can be a nice option. Also,regular use of alpha-hydroxy acids, specifically glycolic acid, can be a gentleway of removing build-up for skin cells that are ready to be removed. Only people with truly sensitive/cracked skin should avoid them.

• Do not tan to try and cover blemishes or acne scars. It is true that the sun can dry the skin and alleviate acne but it is ashort term gain for long term trouble. Aside from the many medical issueslike cancer, tanning also creates a rather muddy looking complexion. Beautiful skin reflects light and healthy, hydrated skin cells will helpwith that.

• Do not think that thicker moisturizers means more hydration I see a lot of older women especially applying the Nivea or Ponds typecold creams to their faces in the belief that is the only way to hydrateseverely dry skin. Hydration comes from penetrating through to theepidermis or protecting the skin to preserve your own natural moisture content. Different ingredients will accomplish different things. The thickness ofcreams has to do with the emulsifiers in the cream itself and it does not equalhydration. They can also cause closedcomedones or milia.

I’ve attached a fun little quiz to helpfurther guide you. It is not necessarily the gospel on your skin type butagain gives some helpful indicators to look for. Just remember to doperiodic re-checks to make sure you and your skin are still on the same page.

Write in with any questions- us, CyberDERM girls, will do our best.

Karina T.

The Controversy about Vitamin D and sunscreen

2011-10-06T15:58:00.000-04:00

The debate continues over which is more important - wearing sunscreen and limiting sun exposure tprevent skin cancer or getting the beneficial effects of vitamin D from even time-limited sun exposure or tanning.First consider why vitamin D is so important:

It's primary purpose is to assist parathormone and other metabolic agents in regulating and maintaining normal levels of calcium and phosphorus in the body.
Calcium requires vitamin D for efficient transport from the digestive tract into the bloodstream.
Recent research suggests that vitamin D is important in the prevention of osteoporosis, high blood pressure, several forms of cancer, and some immune-system diseases. It has now replaced Vitamin C and E as being the "wonder" vitamin, if there is one.

There are two forms of vitamin D that are important in humans:

Vitamin D2 : Ergocalciferol contained in plants
Vitamin D3 : Cholecalciferol, manufactured in the skin from exposure to UV radiation and present in certain foods.

The controversy:
Recent studies find many individuals in Canada to be deficient in vitamin D. They wear sunscreen for protection in the summer and spend the long winter months wrapped from head to toe in warm clothing. This limits the production of vitamin D from the lower UV exposure. Some recommend to spend a limited time of 10 minutes in the sun without a sunscreen from time to time. At Cyberderm and Laserderm we advocate stringent sunscreen protection all year round. The risk of UV exposure far outweigh any benefits from maintaining vitamin D production by the skin:

Most cases of skin cancer are potentially preventable, yet across the USA non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC) has tripled from 1 million cases in 1987 to 3.5 million in 2009.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention state that melanoma rates have been increasing by 3.1% per year since 1986, despite the use of sunscreens, since most sunscreens may not protect against the longer UVA rays.
3% of Canadians will develop some form of skin cancer this year.
In North America over $6 billion is pent removing actinic and cancerous lesions.
UV radiation from sun exposure causes skin cancer, and photoaging and pre-mature aging.

How much vitamin D do you really need?

We prefer that you get your Vitamin D from diet and supplements. The RDA may not be high enough for most Canadians. Most experts agree that children and adults who stay out of the sun require 1000-2000 IU daily, but you can safely take 2-4 thousand IU per day, particularly in the winter months.

What you may not know about vitamin D:

Vitamin D in the body has to be processed by the liver and the kidneys into a usable form. Whether the source is dietary or from sun exposure, once vitamin D is processed, the metabolic effect is the same. That is why dietary vitamin D works. Your body does not know whether the vitamin D being used came from sun exposure and the skin or from your diet.
You can get vitamin D from a variety of sources. Foods such as salmon, sardines, shiitake mushrooms, and egg yolks naturally contain vitamin D. Some foods like milk, orange juice, yogurts, and cheeses are fortified to increase their vitamin D and calcium content. Finally, there are prescription and over-the-counter vitamin D supplements that come in capsules and liquids.

Get your Vitamin D from diet and select your sunscreen wisely:

As mentioned in previous blogs, using a truly broad spectrum for sunscreen is essential. Avoid the high SPF trap where most believe that the higher - the better. For adequate sunburn protection measured by the SPF number, most need a minimum of SPF 25-30. Ensure you get truly broad-spectrum protection from even long wave UVA, most high SPF sunscreens will not protect you adequately. Current research and the findings of the Environmental Working Group (EWG) confirm that zinc and titanium-based formulations are among the safest, most effective sunscreens on the market. Zinc gives complete UVA and UVB, while titanium affords complete UVB and partial UVA protection. Clear zinc products, such as CyberDERM's AM Hydrating Whip, provides the complete protection in an esthetic invisible film.

If you enjoy having a "sun kissed tan", then opt for the alternative of self-tanning lotion. We recommend St-Tropez self-tanning products - http://www.sttropez.com/. It gives you the tan you want, first time-the safe way, looking like you just came back from the Islands, the future looks golden!
Their product is available at CyberDERM, along with our premium products of cosmeceuticals.

A Peel from Two Perspectives

2011-10-02T13:18:00.003-04:00

This month we thought we would talk about peels from two perspectives: from the expert, our aesthetician Karina, on why you should get peels and from someone who has had one and how it went, i.e. me. We hope you enjoy it and write us in with questions and comments!

All the Beauty Best,

Sara

Karina's Perspective

Many people hear the term “chemical peel” and make two false assumptions. Firstly, they think this treatment actually “peels” away the skin. Secondly, they think that “chemical” means something extremely harsh or even toxic. Neither is true. Chemical peels do not peel away anything; they simply dissolve and exfoliate the uppermost layer of the epidermis, revealing a new layer of rejuvenated skin. In fact, you can undergo a chemical peel during your lunch break and return to work that very afternoon without anybody being the wiser - although you may receive comments on how your skin glows and has that “healthy” look. You may hear that anybody can do a chemical peel procedure. As with any procedure involving your skin, a prudent approach is to trust your care to a trained professional. Peels are used to treat a variety of skin conditions—fine lines, age spots and uneven pigmentation, acne and acne scarring. Deciding which peel is right for your very particular skin type and condition should be made only with the help of an experienced and knowledgeable professional who can give you sage advice about all the options available.

TCA PEELS

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels are considered medium-depth peels. They reach slightly deeper into the skin than alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels--and can produce better results, depending on the concentration of the acid. These peels also have the advantage of being suitable for most skin types, including darker-toned skin.

THE TREATMENT

A TCA peel generally takes 15 to 30 minutes. The exact length of treatment will depend on how many "coats" of the acid are applied to your skin. First, your skin will be cleansed and degreased. Then the acid will be applied. You’ll experience a slight stinging sensation during the 2 to 3 minutes the solution remains on your skin. Within a few days, your skin will tighten and darken--and then begin to crack and slough off for the next 4 to 7 days--at which point the tighter, smoother and more youthful-looking layer of skin will emerge.

Your skin’s newly formed outer layer will be temporarily more susceptible to sunburn. You must protect it with an effective broad spectrum sunscreen SPF 30 sunscreen for several weeks. Daily use of a sunscreen on exposed areas is the basis for good skin care. Many of you have most likely heard our take on sunscreens and how zinc oxide ones are the best, if not check out our release on the Perils of Not Screening your Sunscreen in our In The News section of our website.

Enjoy your treatment and write in to tell us about your experience!

Sara's Perspective
The fall in Canada is always a great time of the year. You get to experience that first chill outside and pull out your favourite sweaters. If you are like me, you get a break from the intense heat of the summers in a big city. No matter how diligent you are in your sun care, the wears and tears that summer can bring are hard on your skin. I always manage to accumulate a couple more freckles and I get a slightly greater build-up of dead skin. All of that means that it is time to rev up exfoliating your skin and just perk up your skin cells that can become a bit sluggish.

I frequently get oxygenating masks, especially in the transition between the seasons. They involve layering a series of topical products that include natural enzymes found within the body that are analogous to an oil change for your cells. Sometimes when you need something more involved, chemical peels are actually a fairly gentle way of completely removing the dead cells and exposing the living ones in the epidermis.

Now I have never gotten a facial before so I can't fairly comment on their effectiveness but chemical peels are much more focused on delivering therapeutic results. This time around, Karina elected to use the PCA Sensi Peel on me since it had been a while since my last one. With peels, you layer the treatments over top of each other depending on what degree of actual exfoliation you are looking for and how much your skin can tolerate. I just wanted a gentle sloughing but I have seen some get what I call the 'sheet' effect where sheets of skin come delicately off. The actual peel itself should not really be all the uncomfortable. Typically, whoever is applying the peel will ask the wonderful question, "On a scale of 1-10 , what is your comfort level?" A ten would be an "Oh god, this hurts": I was a five by the end and just tried to fan away the stinging.

That evening I went home pretty normal looking but a little shiny from the post-peel products you are meant to apply. I actually looked pretty glowing for the first day afterwards and it was only on the night of the second day that I started to get that tight sensation and a little flaking. Flaky skin is a pet peeve of mine since it is really impossible to cover. I always suggest getting a peel on a Wednesday so that by Friday night, you are home and you can hide out for the weekend. If you have to go out, wear a ball cap and big sunglasses and then you look like a movie star in hiding. It also pays to apply the post-creams when you feel tight. Finally, avoid temptation and do not pull at your skin. I have a skin type III (i.e. I tend to tan quite easily and burn rarely) so I produce excess pigment with any kind of trauma which could happen if you rip the skin and create a scab. If you would like, you can use the pads of your fingertips in the shower to gently remove the dead skin.

I'm pretty happy with the results. My residual freckles have faded. My skin is noticeably smoother. I also noticed that when I apply my make-up the finish is even nicer than normal. Plus I got a 'you look nice' from my boyfriend, which is always bonus.

A New Introduction and a New Way to Body Contour

2011-07-15T09:40:00.011-04:00

Hello Everyone!

I am Karina Tenekjian, CyberDERM’s new aesthetician, make-up artist and beauty counsellor. I worked previously in Los Angeles for the past 10 years as a freelance stylist and makeup artist, and have extensive experience in salon and medical aesthetics. I am very focused on what I do and my wish is to assist you in achieving your expectations and becoming more beautiful!

I am pleased to introduce a new addition to the family of therapies at our sister company, Laserderm. The Venus FREEZE is now available to patients as a non-invasive treatment for skin laxity and body contouring.

Venus Concept, a leading company in the Radio Frequency (RF) field, brings us the FREEZE. It is a simple, comfortable, and reliable new system, based on the (MP)2 technology. This new equipment is a major new advance in the use of RF for facial and body skin rejuvenation. It appears to achieve expected results more quickly than previous systems, without surgery or recovery time. It allows you to maintain normal routines and to carry on with your planned activities. The Venus Freeze provides the fastest treatment, the best temperature uniformity and patient comfort among the non-invasive RF systems in use. I personally experienced these benefits and can confirm that the heating sensation is so pleasant, like a warm massage, that you might even fall asleep. Until now, few systems allow us to offer patients an optimal standard for this type of treatment. It is an all-in-one, simple system that can bring results as early as two treatments.

The Venus FREEZE boosts your body’s own collagen production resulting in tighter and smoother skin. It works as the patented technology combines a grid of bi-polar RF with magnetic pulses that work in synergy to reduce cellulite. This system is also used in combination with other treatments, such as post- liposuction tissue recovering, post-ablative and non-ablative laser remodelling, to name a few.

It has met our expectations and early patients appear satisfied. It is particularly suitable for difficult or less accessible areas such as the neck, chest, underarms or arms. Our staff have all eagerly used the FREEZE for contouring and cellulite reduction and there is keen competition to get available times. For our varied personal concerns results are noticeable, and the definite plus is that it is painless!

In wishing all the best to you and your family this summer, I remain,

Yours truly,

Karina

Healthy glowing skin

2011-01-18T14:05:00.015-05:00

2011 WISH LIST:

Designer purse...diamond earrings...radiant complexion!
With 2010 behind us, we reflect upon events and happenings of the past year and we ask ourselves "what can we do better this year"?

If you have been wishing for a healthy glowing skin, then what better time than now. Anyone can attain the skin they always wanted with the correct prescribed regime. If the winter environmental stresses are getting to your skin, then why not do something about it, by taking a few minutes out of your busy lifestyle to really care for yourself.

The new year brings new things, including fashion and beauty trends that keep you looking and feeling noval and this year's forecast calls for glittery nails, tones of golden OMG-orange glamorous lips, extra long lashes and healthy glowing complexions. This is the time to start fresh and feel confident about healthy, beautiful skin. Dull, sallow complexions, dehydrated skin and hyperpigmentation are all common complaints. Protocols designed to flood the skin with hydration, antioxidants and vitamins are recommended for all skin types and conditions to leave the skin naturally healthy and glowing. Our line of cosmeceutical skin care is designed to do just that!

A perfect remedy for the winter blues and my personal favourite, is the PM Anti-Age rejuvenation moisturizer. What you might not know about our night treatment, is that it is fully loaded with anti-oxidants. It rejuvenates and improves the cellular viability and physiological process that ages us. The finest formulation of exotic ingredients from around the world, such as; renovage, EUK 123, gorgonian sea whip and tumeric.

Tumeric has actually been a well known skin care power house and offers many benefits to the skin. Because it is natural, it is used safely in many cosmetics and skin care remedies. The use of tumeric improves overall skin health and helps to protect the skin against disease and other skin conditions. It is a natural healer for skin conditions such as eczema, acne, dry skin and psoriasis. The use of tumeric in cosmetics and skin care products helps to naturally brighten the skin, slow the appearance of aging and restore youth, keeping the skin radiant from deep within. Continued use decreases the formation of deep creases and wrinkles.

Always complimentating your night rejuvenation with the AM Hydrating whip for prevention and protection during the day is your power system and my recipe for healthy glowing skin, helping me beat the winter blues!

THINK PINK FOR OCTOBER

2010-10-07T11:51:00.013-04:00

Raising awareness for breast cancer

Each year, thousands of Canadians are touched by Breast Cancer. It not only impacts the individuals living with the disease, but their families, friends and loved ones as well. While survival rates have increased with recent breakthroughs, one in nine women still face a diagnosis by the age of 85 and will need our help and support. Together our contributions can make a difference.

The Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation suggests ways to reduce your cancer risk.

Quit smoking

Be Sun Smart

Keep to a healthy weight

Be more physically active

Eat a healthy, well balanced diet

Avoid or limit alcohol intake

We at CyberDERM particularly are adverts of being Sun Smart. Protecting your skin from harmful UV rays with an efficient sunscreen that is a ultra fine zinc oxide base formula 15% or higher, ensures a full 400NM spectrum of protection. Screen your sunscreen, be educated and proficient label readers, CyberDERM Laboratories manufactures an invisible zinc oxide based on EU and Australian standards for a truly broad spectrum activity. It is translucent, with a cashmere matte finish and non-greasy. For more information please visit: http://www.cyberderm.ca/
In addition CyberDERM offers Chemotherapy skin solutions, our Derma-Technology skin care has solutions that are gentle, do not contain synthetic fragrances, colors or other known sensitizers. Using gentle products during treatment can help balance your skin and prevent known side effects. Our highly educated team of physicians and nurse consultants at Laserderm are also available to help you through recommended professional advanced treatments.
We all want to join the celebration of cancer survivors and take part in the fight against breast cancer. Our hearts go out to individuals and families touched by cancer. By donating and working together we can deter, defeat and defy cancer!
Cyberderm is proud to support in the fight against breast cancer, we are raising donations to Living Beyond Cancer Foundation in support of all women who have risen above breast cancer and those who we love.
http://ottawa.ctv.ca/servlet/an/local/CTVNews/20100917/OTT_armyrun_100917/20100917/No%20Ordinary%20Family
http://www.lbbc.org/

Confessions of being beauty crazed!

2010-09-23T10:37:00.006-04:00

I admit my relationship and love of all things beauty is real and enduring. After 3-4 months of lip balm, sunscreen and a little eyeliner, I am ready for REAL makeup. Fall is a time I crave the trends, captivated by the rich colors that warm your heart before Jack Frost hits the Ottawa streets. Ready to dive into this fall's fashion trends, captivated by the edgy kaleidoscope of shades that every fashion aficionado desires. Taking a hint of the old world and French beauty by combining different colors on the same facial feature to yield a spectacular and dimensional effect. It's about emancipation - freedom, if you like - to be confident with how you look, and this year Jane Iredale mineral makeup offers more then just smokey eyes, they have made a "pure impact" on all eyes http://makeupblog.janeiredale.com/blog/?tag=eyeshadow
You will literally "fall" for their new 2010 Fall collection, now available at CyberDERM.

There are other trends that come hand in hand with makeup. Great makeup starts with beautiful skin. I have personally experienced the benefits of blended peels that remove the damaged caused throughout the summer months. It is all about upkeep and prevention. I find renewing my skin with blended TCA peel revives my skin, smooths my wrinkles and removes any sun damage that may have escaped my diligent efforts to "protect and prevent". The TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) solutions are blends formulated with several brightening ingredients. Including lactic acid, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, azelaic acid and plumping phytohormones to produce dramatic results, without the discomfort and downtime associated with traditional acid peels.

The fact is we all love to look and feel good, making time for ourselves is essential. "shine, Fashion + Beauty" from yahoo reveals in these recent statistics why we love to treat ourselves:

55% of women said they shop for beauty products to relieve stress and relax.
25% of women said they shop to keep up with beauty trends and products.
65% of women feel happy after they have purchased a new beauty product.
75% of women feel good about themselves but want to look younger.

Beauty products give us an edge. Just like embracing makeup as a way to feel good, we also see it as a chance to create a professional and personal appearance. I think it's safe to say that I am not the only one with a slight obsession for all things "beauty". So for beauty's sake, indulge yourself, come in and see us!
All the beauty best,

The contributors to pre-mature aging

2010-08-16T10:25:00.021-04:00

PHOTOAGING

What is photoaging

Photoaging is premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet radiation (uv), primarily from the sun, but also from artificial UV sources. Photoaging is different from chronologic aging, as the damaging effects of UV rays from the sun (or UV lamps), alter the normal structures of the skin.

How much is skin aging due to photoaging versus normal aging

On sun exposed skin, up to 90% of aging is due to the deleterious effects of the sun. The natural aging process is dependent on time and genetics. However, photoaging can be reduced with sun avoidance. A truly broad spectrum sunscreen blocks 90% of the UVA rays that penetrate to the deepest layers of skin. Many high SPF sunscreens do not block enough UVA, and do not adequately prevent photoaging. The best UVA protection comes from zinc oxide, also used in soothing calamine lotion and diaper creams.

Dr. Laughlin, our Medical Consultant and Medical Director of Laserderm, generally categorizes photoaging into the three "D" components: Deterioration, Deflation, and Descent. The best way to avoid photoaging is to have a good sun protection regimen such as CyberDERM AM Hydrating Whip with 15% invisible zinc oxide, providing a full spectrum of UV protection and your daily moisturizer all in one. Its invisible zinc ingredient (zinclear) meets the Australian and European standards for a complete broad spectrum UVB/UVA protection.

If only I knew this vital information 15 years ago! but since sun damage is cumulative, it is never too late to start! Now I am sun\sunscreen smart and think back to centuries ago when woman had radiant porcelain skin, which was the standard beauty mark. The measure of beauty was flawless skin, also considered as a sign of social status. Current fashion embraces porcelain skin once again, where the "tanned look" is out! Since all I ever accomplished from my efforts to desperately achieve any color was an aggregation of freckles left behind, I am in with the out! Unfortunately, these days we also have a competitor to UV rays that also contributes to aging, and that is....

2. ENVIRONMENTAL STRESS AND POLLUTANTS

It's distressing that everyday particles from places such as industrial areas, busy highways, and farms are released into the atmosphere, and carried into the air which we live in and breathe. It is estimated that every day on our planet more than 80,000 tons of particles become airborne, contributing to the pollutants and toxins we breathe. Ontario is the province with the highest levels of pollutants in Canada. Your skin is continuously being exposed to free radical damage, destructive environmental toxins, pollutants, allergens and solar damage, all are significant contributors to the aging process. In skin cells chronological aging accelerates due to the sun and air pollutants that produce free radicals, the accumulation of which become toxic.

The body's largest organ -the skin- pays a price for protecting us from all of the environmental damages. Everything you do now to prevent damage will reduce your signs of aging. My personal favorite among aesthetics in our clinic, is the Physicians choice Detoxifying Mask Treatment. It specializes in removing the accumulation of toxins within the skin. This is one treatment that is painless and you will enjoy.

This month of August, take advantage of CyberDERM's monthly special, and receive 20% off our PCA Oxygenating and Detoxifying Mask Treatment. Speak to Angela for more information.

Certain characteristics fit the mold of the "ideal" signs of beauty and youth.

2010-07-13T10:23:00.010-04:00

Let's face it, we all want to fight Mother Nature when it comes to signs of aging. Fortunately there are ways to restore what we have lost, and I am going to let you in on the secrets to revitalize your natural youthful beauty. Beauty and high volume cheek bones go hand in hand along with full lips and wide eyes, but for many women the allure of a sculpted cheek is irresistable. It keeps a defined jaw line, lifts and shapes your face entirely; perhaps this is why high cheek bones are synonymous with traditional idea of glamour. Maybe you weren't born with Audrey Hepburn or Sophia Lauren's coveted facial traits, but I have tips to help you with the illusion of shaping and creating volume where it is lost. Highlighting and contour is one of the most powerful tools available in makeup, but most makeup neophytes will shy away from utilizing its benefits. Highlighting will draw the light to catch the attention to more flattering areas and shaping with contour will cast a shadow to create depth to sculpt the face.

Learn more when you come in to visit CyberDERM.

The newest trend in replacing lost volume and enhancing the youthful contours of the face, is the non-surgical innovative injectable hyaluronic volumiser "VOLUMA" by Juvederm. It's natural feeling and safe. It will breathe new life to anyone's look with immediate improvements that lifts and restores. You will fall in love with the results and it will be a love affaire for a full 18 months!

This sets it apart from all other temporary fillers with the maximum volume and duration, confirming Dr. Laughlin's philosophy of less product with paramount results. Laserderm is one of the select Cosmetic Medical Clinics that carry this exclusive FDA cleared product.

We look forward to seeing you soon.

All the beauty best,

Angela

Go with your own glow

2010-06-18T15:18:00.008-04:00

To continue Sara's previous blog posted April 14th, she spoke highly of our new addition to CyberDERM; St-Tropez self tanners provide a new era and evolution in tanning. Achieving an effortless, flawless natural, but safe tan. http://www.st-tropez.com/
I can speak from personal experience , having tried almost every self tanner on the market from low end to high end, I have saved you from embarrassing mishaps. St-Tropez has exceeded my expectations, I especially love the aroma guard, this means no more of that distinctive self tan odour. Being firm advocates of what we preach, we all stay out of the sun and use our zinc oxide sunscreen daily, imagine how excited we all are to actually have color but without the UV damage of the sun or tanning beds. Be aware that the World Health Organization (WHO) reports worldwide over 2 million skin cancers, 132,00 melanomas and 66,000 melanoma-related deaths annually, related to tanning beds. Frequent tanners using high-pressured sunlamps in sun-beds may receive as much as 12 times the annual UVA dose compared to the dose received from outdoor sun exposure. For the complete advisory read this interesting article from the International Skin Cancer Foundation:
http://www.gowithyourownglow.net/images/stories/2010_Journal/IntlAdvisoryCouncilNews.pdf
Choose the safe alternative and go with your own glow, St-Tropez is safe and natural, just remember to use a zinc oxide sunscreen for full spectrum of protection against UV damage at all times when outdoors.

All the beauty best,
Angela

News update

2010-05-21T14:12:00.003-04:00

I must inform you that Sara Dudley has returned to school to complete her MBA, therefore sadly she will be absent from the blogs for one year. Having said that, it's with a great pleasure that I will continue her CyberDERM blogs. Some of you might already know me as CyberDERM's Esthetician and Makeup Artist, my name is Angela Gins and I am excited to give all of you my beauty secrets and what's in the new. When it comes to cosmetics and beauty, I am a billboard of information, with 15+ years experience in the industry, I look forward to share my knowledge with all of you. To get started, I would like to announce that we will be posting new how-to webinars. If you have visited our webinars already, you may have noticed it wasn't exactly Hollywood productions! But Sara and I did have a good laugh trying to be A-listers. we are excited to finally reproduce our clips but this time with the help of our inhouse photographer who has the expertise to make anything happen (metaphorically). We will also be using a professional model, who happens to be the daughter of one of our beloved nurses Cathy Holbein here at Laserderm, we will be keeping you posted when it is officially available to view.

All the beauty best,
Angela

New Jane Iredale Spring Collection and St. Tropez Bronzers!

2010-04-14T12:01:00.004-04:00

Hi! We just got in the new Jane Iredale spring Perfectly Nude collection. They now have some great lip stains that do stay on quite nicely without being drying. They also have a new bronzer and eye shadow palette with pretty blush undertones and are very wearable! Finally, we have switched our self-tanners to the St. Tropez line. They are consistently written up as being one of the best self-tanners: natural looking, easy to apply and odourless. I can already vouch for the scent- there is none of the usual unpleasant 'biscuit-y' scent at all. I'm just waiting for my mousse to come in and then I will let you know how it goes on. It also comes in an aerosol and lotion version. There are formulas specifically for your face and there is an 'intensifier' that helps extend the colour over time. Lots to play with!

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

Beauty Sleuth: Road testing Cover Girls new Lash Blast Smoky Eyes

2010-03-15T15:20:00.003-04:00

Hi!

Every once and a while (fairly frequently), a beauty campaign or product piques my interest and I can't help but buy into the hype and try something out. At least, if I share my experience though, you can benefit too!

Recently, I'd been hearing that Cover Girls ad campaign with Drew Barrymore was one of the most successful ever and that their Lash Blast mascara was flying off the shelves. I was intrigued. I happened to be in a Shoppers one day and thought about checking out the newest addition to the line- the Smokey Eye double-ended cream eyeshadow. The colours just looked so fresh and soft and included the very pretty violet that seems to be ubiquitous this spring. I looked for it and it really had flown off the shelf- gone. I was definitely intrigued.

Anyways, the short blog story is that I got two pens eventually (a purple/brown one and light grey/charcoal grey one) and I was disappointed. I always find that drug store brands never pigment their eye products enough and this one in particular was quite slippery on the lid. If you are still inclined to try it out, prime your lid with a concealer and use a eyeshadow brush or liner brush to layer on the colours until you get the right amount (this will also help make sure you apply it in the right part of the lid with some amount of precision). If you have translucent powder, you could even set it. However, if you were hoping to look like Drew Barrymore in one quick swipe, orchid eyelids and all- I'd say skip this one. You can check out the webinar on smoky-eyes (the the right of the blog) if you have not already for technique tips.

Well, that is my beauty sleuthing skills at their best. If you would like me to try something out, just write in and their is a very good chance I might.

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

The Amazing Science behind Ectoins…

2010-01-19T15:07:00.004-05:00

This next post is inspired by CyberDERM’s newest product called Ectoins Mineral Balm. I secretly call it Miracle Balm (but refrained from putting it on the label) mostly because of the active principal in it…Ectoins.

The story behind the balm goes back to last winter when Dr. Sharyn Laughlin (recently referred to as the First Lady of Lasers…very fitting) went to Innisbrook, Austria for a conference in laser medicine. The Father of laser medicine and her mentor, Dr. Rox Andersen, gave a lecture about how most laser procedures give their results by stimulating Heat Shock Proteins (HSP’s) in the skin. These HSP’s are like chaperone cells in the body and help to stabilize and repair damaged proteins. Most laser procedures use heat or trauma to the skin to force your skin into creating HSP’s. For rejuvenation procedures, this translates into collagen, elastin and fibronectin proteins being rebuilt and solidified. Dr. Laughlin then put it to us to investigate from a formulations perspective what could help facilitate the production of these very important HSP’s. It is an emerging science but we managed to find that Ectoins were our answer.

The Ectoin Mineral Balm is therefore poised to play a huge role at Laserderm in all the various treatments that they do with lasers. Our H20 Reserve also has Ectoins so we will be offering a Pre and Post Surgical package for Laserderm patients that is actually looking to enhance their treatments. Most other balms are used to help with healing but this is a balm with a difference.

Ectoins also bind water to themselves in the skin so the balm is an excellent weekly intensive hydrating treatment for those who are extremely dry and itchy in the winter. Also for all of you skiers out there, the balm is great for sun and wind burn and helps to mitigate UV damage rather than just soothe like Aloe Vera.

So put down the Bag Balm, and someone let Shania know that there is something better out now.

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

Beauty is all about Skin Tone

2009-11-18T13:14:00.003-05:00

Never has a truer word been spoken before...beauty is all about skin tone. The symmetry of the face used to be the in vogue criteria for what was considered beautiful but now researchers are saying that good skin trumps good bone structure. Click here for the article from the Times in the UK. The good news... beautiful skin is really attainable, getting better cheek bones is a bit trickier.

News, News, News.

2009-11-16T10:26:00.002-05:00

Here at CyberDERM we have some big events on the horizon! We will be launching our next three products in December. So while our anti-aging, pro-ageless line may not be complete, we’re now able to offer more tailored solutions for all of your skin worries. CyberDERM will also be appearing in the Ottawa version of the Modern Urban Guide…they are fantastic supporters of local independently owned businesses and we will be keeping some very good company in their midst. You should definitely pick one up in your major Canadian city or check them out here. Finally, we are also going to be launching our e-commerce so that everyone can access our wunder cosmeceuticals…just in time for the holidays…very suspect timing. I encourage everyone to check out the e-boutique once it goes online also because the site will exclusively be offering 4 regimen packages. These packages aptly named Glow Bright, Be Ageless- Day and Night, First Wrinkle and Sahara Skin make skincare a little bit easier (sometimes we just like to be told what to do!). So from now until we launch, I’ll be doing a featurette on our newbie products and our regimen packages…and then you will have to go see for yourself.

First on the docket: H20 Reserve

Some of you may recall my earlier rant against moisturizers. They are so often prime culprits of the dash of this, dash of that formulations philosophy. Many of us have been lured into stippling on these rich occlusive types of cream puffs while thinking that thick meant hydrating. I’ve been prying out of people’s hands their Nivea Cold Cream but until now I have not had many alternatives for them. Our wonderful chemist at CyberDERM (who we owe many thanks to) developed in my biased opinion the nicest moisturizer I have ever used. I’ve been using a sample of it everyday and I do not even have especially dry skin. I just love it.

It took a cue from Dr. Laughlin’s love of olive oil. Both she and I regularly add a capful of olive oil to our baths at night and I sometimes feel like it’s the original fountain of youth. The base of H20 Reserve is an olive oil full of essential fatty acids. Olive oil is great for hydrating the skin because it replenishes the skin’s moisture barrier but is also capable of penetrating through to the epidermis. We then added Resveratrol as a powerful anti-oxidant for all of that very important free radical scavenging. I’m sure many of you have in some way heard about Resveratrol. It has been featured on 60 Minutes, Oprah, Dr. Oz is a big fan etc. Maybe you are familiar with the slogan “300 glasses of wine a day” as that is the amount of wine you would have to ingest to get the same amount of the polyphenol. We then also added tetrapeptides. You may be aware of a pentapeptide called Matrixyl. It is quite a popular one, the idea being that long chains of peptides increase the production proteins like collagen, elastin and fibronectin. They are helpful in maintaining and renewing the epidermal matrix that keeps our skin supported and pinch-able. We selected a tetrapeptide that has been shown clinically to double the production of those essential fibers when compared to Matrixyl. You have to love ever evolving technology.

I feel like a proud parent really. I just cannot seem to say enough great things about this one but to each their own…so go and get your own when it comes out.

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

New Chocoholicks Lip Glosses from Jane Iredale

2009-10-14T15:31:00.002-04:00

We just got Jane Iredale's Limited Edition Chocoholicks set of 4 lip glosses in store. We're ahead of the curve as they are not even up yet on Jane Iredale's website. In any case, I'm getting sensory hits of chocolate all around the office now that our entire staff is sporting them. They're definitely cute and a nice gift.

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

Frequently Asked Questions re: Laser "Life Changing, I don't have to shave ever again" Hair Removal

2009-10-13T14:30:00.004-04:00

I had laser hair removal over five years ago on my lower legs. In short- I love it, it worked and I am still virtually hair free. I had about 95% hair loss and the other 5 % remains baby fine. It really is complete freedom to not be beholden to shaving or waxing. For people considering it- here are some Frequently Asked Questions.

1. Does the procedure hurt?

Yes. The procedure does require using a topical numbing cream about an hour before the procedure. Some areas are more ‘sensitive’- like the bikini area. It also depends on your pain tolerance. For women, it does help if you are not pre-menstrual and everyone should avoid caffeine the day of the procedure. Some laser systems also seem to hurt more but this should not be a deciding factor for selecting which laser to use (this is based on skin type and colour of the hair). For my legs, I actually did not feel most of the treatment except along the shin bone. People describe the sensation has being akin to snapping an elastic band against your skin- unpleasant but manageable.

2. How many treatments will I need?
It obviously depends but most people will require 3-5 treatments. Some lasers literally vaporize the hair and those patients will have complete temporary hair loss. Other lasers cause the hair follicle to be shed gradually over a couple of weeks before having complete temporary hair loss. In both cases, less hair should grow back each time until you get the desired amount of permanent hair removal and you should notice lighter and finer hair growth as well.

3. At what intervals should I have the treatment?

There is a lot of confusion about this question as many spas or clinics will offer unlimited hair removal for one month or will book appointments very close together. This is important, you require a minimum of 3 months between each appointment. The 3 month period allows the hair follicles to go through their complete growth cycle, which includes a resting phase, growing phase, and a falling out phase. Hair will only respond to lasers during the growing stage so the timing of treatments is crucial. Closely spaced appointments will mean that you could be treating hairs that are in the resting phase and are ineffectual and a waste of money.

4. Can any skin type benefit from it?

Yes. Even darker skin can be treated safely but requires using a different type of lasers than someone with fair skin. However, people with a tan should delay treatment until they are at their fairest. It is a bit counterintuitive but you should keep out of the sun any areas that you want treated for several months (depending on how long you keep a tan). You can use a Glycolic acid or lactic acid based product to help fade your tan. Also, avoid using any self-tanner before the treatment as well.

5.Is laser hair removal a medical procedure?

Ok, so this technically is not a FAQ but it should be. These are things to keep in mind:

1. If you have any moles in the area to be treated, you should be mole checked. Laser hair removal can remove moles at the same time. This is could be dangerous if the mole is in any way malignant because any cancer will still continue to exist but will be less detectable.

2.If you are a woman and have what would be considered an abnormal amount of hair especially on the face or chest, you should exclude any hormonal causes before undergoing treatment. It is actually quite common for women to have excess testosterone or an underlying condition that will prevent hair loss. Consult a physician and they can do blood work for endocrinal issues.

3. There is a possibility of getting hyperpigmentation in the area treated (which is normally temporary) or at worst even scarring (permanent). The person performing the procedure (ideally a nurse at least) should be able to recognize if they are using energy levels that are making the skin too hot or even burning it. Complications can happen in any case so you also want to be able to trust that the person can help manage any adverse effects. The technology has been around since the 1990’s so how much experience does the person have? What is their training? Is there any supervision or medical oversight? Who is accountable if there are complications? Are you comfortable with the post-op instructions and care given?

I’m of the camp that believes this is a medical procedure not an aesthetic one like waxing or electrolysis. It is an issue of trust and comfort level so choose where you go based on those feelings. It is a technology that works beautifully- you just need to make sure it is done properly.

Finally, here is a picture of a good result. For a better quality image, click here. Thanks.

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

The Things that Go Bump...On Your Arms

2009-09-23T13:07:00.001-04:00

I had someone ask me the other day about the little bumps that many of us get on the back of our arms. For some, they appear as small white bumps that feel rough to the touch. For others, they are red and inflamed and can become rashy and irritating. This condition is called KERATOSIS PILARIS: keratosis as in the protein found within skin called keratin and pilaris as in the hair follicule that can become entrapped within. Physicians believe the condition is genetic and comes from an overproduction in keratin. It occurs most commonly on the back of the arms but can appear elsewhere including the face (and is sometimes mistaken for acne). Unfortunately it is something to be controlled rather than cured and from personal experience, I can tell you its incredibly annoying.

For those who have the inflamed/red kind (or the rubra variety), you need a two pronged approach: calm the inflammation, exfoliate the excess keratin. A topical hydrocortisone (of .5% over the counter or 1% as a prescription) will calm the redness. One product called UREMOL HC combines hydrocortisone with urea thus helping with the exfoliation without additional irritation. I have read elsewhere about using prescription vitamin A derivatives to help but be careful about not further irritating the area. Adapalene (one type of Vitamin A derivative, brand name Differin) is the least irritating version and could be worth a try. The idea is to apply something like the Uremol HC after a shower when you are still slightly damp. You should find as you go that during subsequent showers, the bumps will get softer and shed more easily. You can use a gentle physical exfoliator like a soft loofah or a salicylic acid based wash to help the process along. My final word of caution: many think that keratosis pillaris occurs due to dry skin. Beware of using thick, occlusive creams on the area as this can exacerbate the problem by hindering exfoliation.

For those with the simple bumpy kinds of bumps (i.e. not irritated), any kind of good chemical exfoliator should do the trick. I like glycolic acid (i.e. our Exfoliant and Moisturizer with 8% glycyolic acid) or you can try something with lactic acid or urea. If the area in question is your arms, you can afford to use a higher concentration, therefore at least an 8% of the acid in question.

The real trick with getting the bumps to is to be consistent in your regimen, otherwise, gasp, they’ll come back!

Hope that helps!

All the Beauty best,

Sara Dudley

Beauty Gizmo Test Driving

2009-09-04T15:20:00.001-04:00

Hi Everyone!

Again, I apologize for neglecting my blogging responsibilities but I was on vacation down south and spurning the Internet with all my might (btw...used our CyberDERM sunscreen and came back from the hot August sun beautifully alabaster...even the custom’s agent noticed). In a complete turn about, I thought I would do a little test-driving of some of this season’s least organic but most technologically evolved beauty gizmos. The two trends on the docket: 1. Long lasting gel nail polish, 2. Vibrating mascara. So yes, I am using this post as an excuse to indulge in my love for all things inane and I braved eyelid burn to do it.

Long lasting Gel Nail Polish.
Now this might not be the official name of this type of product but I got them done in Mt. Tremblant and my aesthetician did not speak English so I am translating. In short, this is a non-acryclic polish like thing that is professionally applied and then cured under UV light. It is reputed to last from two to three weeks. It cost the same price as a regular manicure but the Fairmount at Mt. Tremblant charges fairly high prices in general so I have no idea how much it might cost elsewhere. I used an OPI brand, which meant that I got to choose from their line of colours but the gel versions have only come out with an incredibly abbreviated selection....I chose “No, I’m not a Waitress”, obviously. Each layer involves being dried under a UV light (so douse your fingers in sunscreen...ergo AM Hydrating Whip). The end product really is a polish that is as hard as nails, no worries about smudging and it lasted sans chip for two weeks. The problem ends up being the widening gap between your cuticles and polish, giving you something akin to a reverse French manicure within the second week. You can try and fill in the gap by purchasing the matching non-gel colour and filling it in. You might try taking a nail buffer though and smoothening the edges of the polish or you will otherwise be left with a bumpy mess. The biggest issue, however, was with trying to take my “I’m not a Waitress” off. I soaked each nail in acetone before literally scraping it off with the edge of a nail file. My nail was pretty scratched up but was partially remedied by buffing it and then soaking in olive oil. Afterwards, I thought that maybe pre-soaking each nail in olive oil might make the scraping a little bit easier but that is an untested theory. All in all, a bit a labour intensive, which is against the point really.

Vibrating mascara
I thought I would pit this new vibrating type of mascara (the wand has a little motor on it that you switch on) against my now standard L’Oreal Beauty Tubes mascara. There is something intriguing about bringing a pulsing stick close to your eye. However, for $21.99 for Maybelline’s version, I wanted more than a vibrating piece of brouhaha. After my first attempt and after having an eye-off with my Beauty tubes, I have to say my Beauty Tubes is much prettier and more natural looking. My vibrating uber-mascara looks like I had Donatella Versace sitting on my shoulder, goading me into ever more drag-queen proportions...and that was the first coat. I’ll keep trying (for $21.99, I’ll be trying for a while) but so far, nothing good to report. Also the Maybelline version definitely flakes whereas my Tubes stay put...

If you have any thing you want me to tackle, just write in. I’m going to get something together on hair removal some time in September but I’m flexible.

All the beauty best,

Sara A. Dudley

CyberDERM gone cyber

2009-08-07T16:29:00.003-04:00

If you love amateur film making, you'll love our new webinars on using Jane Iredale mineral make-up. They will be posted next to the blog for posterity. Big round of applause to our make-up artist Angela G. for being such a good sport- we'll improve our camera finesse as we go. If you want us to cover any more subjects, just write in....oh, and please don't laugh at us!

All the Beauty Best,

Sara A. Dudley

What it means to be Green (It Depends on Who you talk to)

2009-08-07T14:23:00.002-04:00

For those of you who read my last post and decided that they are indeed interested in the organic vibe, here is a little compendium of the certification boards that are out there and what their standards mean. Again- you have to be proficient label readers because there are big differences and very little standardization. We might one day have a global standard (and world peace) but until that day, here is the breakdown:

Cosmos: The new body convened my seven members of the European Cosmetics Standards Working Group that has just launched their standards. For a product to be considered organic, it must contain 20% certified organic ingredients.

Ecocert: Originally French but now quite a popular standard, they require ‘organic’ cosmetics to be made with only 10% certified organic ingredients. Many North American companies use the Ecocert label.

Natrue: Originally German and made up of companies like Weleda and Dr. Hauschka, they use a 3 star system. One star guarantees “authentic naturalness”, the criteria for which are determined by product category (i.e. a shampoo versus a moisturizer). Two stars mean that at least 70% of the ingredients are either organic or were collected according to controlled wild collection practices. The three star means that 95% of ingredients are either organic or collected according to the same above mentioned collection practices. They are currently working on a “Declaration of Conformity” for raw materials to standardize the certification procedures.

NPA: The Natural Products Association (an American association) was originally spearheaded by companies like Burt’s Bees and Aubrey Organics that requires 95% of products that use their seal have 95% of their ingredients come from natural (not necessarily organic) ingredients.

NSF: NSF was just instituted this past February as a national American standard and they require any labels that claim “made with organics” to include 70% ingredients that are certified organic.

OASIS: Organic and Sustainable Industry Standards is another American organization that is still finalizing its regulations but would require “organic” products and “made with organic” products to use 85% to 70% certified organic materials respectively. They would also take into consideration principals like sustainable development in farming or collecting the raw materials used.

USDA: The USDA borrow their standards from American food regulations and are perhaps one of the strictest in their guidelines. They require a product labeled as organic to have 95% of its ingredients as certified organic.

In Conclusion:So as you can see, I was not kidding about the plethora of varying organic criteria out there. They certainly do not make it easy to be an informed consumer. You need a pocket dictionary to be able to remember all the designations and sub-designations…what does a two star Natrue label mean if it is body butter from the Himalayans and I use it on a Tuesday? My philosophy will always be to read the labels of the products I use and to consider the criteria for safety and efficacy first and above all else. Natural does not always guarantee either one of those unfortunately but certainly organics could be a nice alternative in some product types some of the time…I’ll just need to read the fine print.

All the Beauty Best,

Sara A. Dudley

The Green Beauty Spectrum

2009-07-20T10:22:00.003-04:00

Hi Everyone!

This post arguably was an exercise in clarification- as the trend to be green in all things emerges, I thought it was important as a purveyor of cosmeceuticals to fully understand all the terms that were being bandied about. I’ve got it now! It took a refresher course of grade 9 chemistry but I feel confident in outlining some of the basic concepts in regards to the SYNTHETICS versus NATURAL versus ORGANIC products debate and then maybe engaging in a little bit of philosophizing.

Proposition #1:
First, let’s take a calming/cleansing breath. The green debate can be one fueled by anxiety and a need to reestablish control over what we put on or in our body. Fortunately in this case, we are just talking about cosmetics (drugs are a separate issue). I’m a big believer than most of us are blessed with powerful barriers, i.e. skin, that is capable of keeping out most of what we try to put on it. Skin irritations and allergies are unfortunate but as for our bodies ingesting the apocalypse through our pores- we are resistant beings.

Preliminary Definitions:
Second, let’s define our terms.
Organic: Within the past decade, criteria for what constitutes an organic product have solidified with more and more national governments passing legislation to actually mandate how the term can be used. In Canada, guidelines exist for what is necessary but compliance is voluntary. That will change with new legislation that should have come into force June 30th. The US passed legislation in 2002 that more closely regulates the criteria. Generally, organic means the avoidance of most synthetic chemical inputs (e.g. fertilizer, pesticides, antibiotics, food additives, etc), genetically modified organisms, irradiation, and the use of sewage sludge. Farms that are certified organic have been free from chemicals for typically three years and organics and non-organics abstain from cohabitation. Also the certification process goes all the way up through to the supply line between delivery, handling, processsing and distribution. Unfortunately, now the waters get murkier between synthetics and naturals.

Naturals and Synthetics: The chasm between an ingredient designated as organic versus natural looms large as natural can be more of a marketing ploy than concrete fact. Since the definitions for both natural and synthetic are pretty fast and loose, it makes sense to talk about a spectrum. On one hand, you have nature that we find in God’s green earth. Dry it, mill it, evaporate it, freeze it and it is still very natural as these processes are only altering it physically as opposed to chemically (i.e. its chemical formula remains the same and nothing new has been created). However, some chemical reactions are pretty ‘natural’ too- for instance the enzymatic browing of an apple. So how much human interplay took place in the process? How different does the end product look from the original? Like I said, it is hard to make a declarative statement either way so take branding claims of "obsessively natural" with a grain of salt.

Conclusions:
Having asked these questions, I think it is fair to say that I do not come down on the side of any one type of designation. I am an egalitarian. From a formulations perspective, you still have to analyze each ingredient from the dual criteria of safety and efficacy. Take the curcumin in our PM Anti-Age. One of our ads says that Indian brides used to rub a paste of turmeric on their faces before their wedding to make their skin glow and so do we. In actual fact, our Dutch supplier of the curcumin chemically extracted the potent part or active ingredient from the other inert elements of the turmeric. Not only can chemical extraction ensure purity, it also means that the ingedient is in a form that the skin can actually absorb. The process of encapsulating also ensures that you can target the effects of your ingredients where they need to be. So where does your product need to take effect? What is it aiming to do? If it is as simple as moisturizing or cleansing, I think organic or actual natural products could be a good solution…as long as they do not have known sensitizers and do not have a thousand ingredients in them. I still bathe in olive oil daily and I have never found anything better.

In the end, it really comes down to trust. Do you trust the companies that make your products? How conscientious are they in their selection of ingredients? How much thought have they put into their products? How much do they trust the quality of ingredients from their suppliers? Some green food for thought.

New Sunscreen Report out!

2009-07-08T13:49:00.003-04:00

Hi! A couple of things...

1. Sorry for not having written in the past two weeks but I was away over in London, England and thought that I would have some interesting things to report from the country that brought us something as important as the Boots Star UVA rating. But I don't. I was frankly a bit disappointed and did not see any real innovation or note-worthy trends to report on! I did come across an article that actually goes into depth about what constitues natural versus organic products acording to the various regulating organizations out there, so I will do some digging and report back once I get a handle on it (like sunscreens, organic regulations seems to be a bit of a proverbial gong show out there!).

2. Also, the Environtmental Working Group came out with the 2009 Sunscreen Investigation. As an organization, they can be a bit overreactive when it comes to reporting every possible suspicion or criticism against any and every ingredient. However, they are also on the forefront of doing some really solid analysis of sunscreens available and have a fantastic database where you can search your own sunscreen brand. I now have their Gadget to the side of our blog so you can search for your brand directly. Go check it out! Well worth it. Read the report as well- it makes a nice point that I have always counselled people to avoid using moisturizers with SPFs as their stand alone sunscreen.

Ok, my "The Dark Side of Green" article is coming soon (it's a working title), and our beauty webinars are also slated for production ( once I get over having my picture taken!).

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

The Encyclopedia of Odd Spots

2009-06-17T15:33:00.003-04:00

Our next issue to tackle will be those pesky little AGE SPOTS that appear as we get older or as we naughtily stay out in the sun (and a couple that we are just born with). To the layman, we call them brown spots but to the experienced and knowing eye- ‘brown spot’ is not a diagnosis and is not even a very good description! There are a whole host of different types of ‘brown spots’ that can be caused by different issues so I’ll give a little lexicon below. Hyperpigmentation can actually come in the form of brown, bluish, or slate grey. Brown lesions are typically situated more superficially in the epidermis but bluish or grey ones take on this hue only because they are located deeper in the 2nd layer of skin, the dermis, and can be harder to get at.

Also- brown spots reaffirm the importance of mole checking because these types of brown spots can be other nastier things like basal cell carcinomas or malignant melanomas. In other words, don’t try and self-diagnose! Go see your dermatologist if you are particularly mole-y, freckly or just spotty. This is just to enrich your vocabulary.

Becker’s Nevus: Brown patches with excess hair growth. Typically appears in normal males in their teens or their twenties.

Café-au-Lait patches: Pale brown and uniformly coloured with regular borders and are larger than freckles. They can be birth marks or appear later in life.

Freckles: Small brown macules (a small patch) under .5 cm. Sun exposure is the prime cause for freckling and those prone to freckling need to wear sunscreens with long wave UVA protection (along with everyone else!).

Lentigines: Small macules under 1 cm and can look like freckles but are a different type of tissue. Several types including the senile kind (appear in weather beaten skin, sometimes called liver spots) . Upon correct diagnosis of senile lentigines, they can be taken off with liquid nitrogen or selective lasers.

Mongolian Spots: Are spots with a bluish or grey cast to them and appear at birth usually in Asians or darker skinned babies. Can spontaneously disappear by the age of 5 and do not normally continue into adulthood.

Nevus of Ota and Ito: two different types of bluish or grey patches that appear on the face or shoulder areas. Again, Asians and those with dark skin are more commonly affected.

Nevus Spilus : Café-au-lait patches with lentigines speckled inside them. Not related to sun exposure and can appear at any age and can sometimes appear in odd looking configurations.

Seborrheic Keratoses: Benign macules and papules of the skin that are ‘stuck on’ lesions with a well defined border. They can have a slightly raised texture. They can be genetic and come with age. The flat variety are more common on the face and extremities whereas the papular varieties appear more frequently on the torso. Liquid Nitrogen can remove them with a chance of scarring and/ or hyper and hypopigmentation. A new laser system called the Q-switched 532 (a green light laser) has had some good results as well!

Solar or Actinic Keratoses: Rough, scaly or crusty spots due to sun damage. They have a 10% chance of giving rise to a type of skin cancer and should not be left untreated.

These are but a few of the weird things are body can come up with but the moral of the story is to keep an eye on your spots and to develop intervals for checking them with your M.D.

Next up…we are going to investigate some of the trends and hot products across the Atlantic. Also- we are going to be taping some webinars on some tricky how-to’s…like covering melasma, tattoos and bruises. We’ll also be showing you how to work with mineral make-up. If there is anything specifically you would like us to cover, write in and we will see what we can do. Stay tuned.

All the Beauty Best.

Sara Dudley

In the News!

2009-06-16T11:55:00.005-04:00

Hi Everyone!

Just thought I'd post CyberDERM's debut into the spotlight! You can check out our mention in the newspaper: Getting that Natural Look, Naturally. Let me know what you think!

Also, our next post on Age Spots will be coming out imminently so look out for it!

All the Beauty Best,

Sara Dudley

Plus de Pigment

2009-06-01T13:58:00.003-04:00

I spent nearly an hour perusing the Allure Skin Forum for women with melasma and read over and over how so many women all of a sudden got this skin condition that seemed to come from nowhere and refused to go away. So today, we break down MELASMA.

Here is what we know: 1. Melasma comes in the form of dark irregular sized patches of skin that can appear on cheeks, the forehead, and the upper lip. 2. Two factors are associated with causing melasma- hormonal changes and various wavelengths in the light spectrum. Hormonal changes can be anything from going on birth control, to hormone therapy, to getting pregnant (melasma is sometimes referred to as pregnancy mask). These changes in combination with light ranging from visible light, to heat, to UVB/UVA light sets off a reaction of melanogenesis that almost creates a form of skin memory that once in place can make people susceptible to melasma potentially for forever. Physicians have not been able to specify what exact concentrations of light set off this reaction and the two factors are not necessarily time sensitive. Women who might have had a baby three years ago can move to Florida and all of a sudden develop melasma. Not fun!

There are two degrees of melasma, superficial or deep. Superficial melasma resides in the second layer of the skin called the epidermis and involves increased melanin production in the melanocytes. Deep melasma on the other hand occurs in the melanophages (a pathologically different kind of skin cell) in the top third layer of the skin called the dermis. For diagnostic purposes, your dermatologist can distinguish between the two using a Woods or UV light. While both are visible to the naked eye, only superficial melasma will ‘light’ up under the Woods light.

The bad news is that deep melasma is trickier to treat as topical solutions cannot readily reach to the deeper dermis layer. Laser therapy with the Fraxel Restore system can be a good solution as it creates micro-pixel wounds that penetrate to the dermis while leaving the surrounding tissue intact. By reaching down to the melanophages and effectively breaking them up, one can begin to eradicate the melanin ‘memory’ that makes melasma a reoccurring event. Typically 4 treatments are required spaced 1-4 months apart. It is important to note that while the Fraxel Restore is specifically effective, one cannot class all lasers together especially since melasma is a light induced phenomena. In other words, do not let just any laser near your face!

For superficial melasma there are more options. Tricholoracetic or TCA peels, performed in your physician’s office, are actually a blend of different acids and can be used to effectively treat melasma. Essentially the key to treating superficial melasma is to remove the first dead layer of skin (called the stratus corneum) so that the targeted treatment can actually reach the melanocytes. Prescription retinoic acids or glycolic acids can also be used for this purpose as a daily at-home solution. Kojic and azelaic acid as well as licorice root are effective melanin inhibiting agents. Hydroquinone used to be the mainstay for treating melasma and as a skin lightener in general. While it can still be found in products like the Obagi line, it is now on to the Canadian Cosmetics Hotlist as being prohibited over worries of being carcinogenic. Formulators are rushing to find the ‘next’ hydroquinone. In the meantime, we currently sell the PCA product called Phaze 13 (http://www.pcaskin.com/) but are in the midst of coming up with our own. We are working on a way to stabilize a traditional Ayurvedic ingredient called Emblica that looks to be really promising. I will keep you posted on how it goes!

Finally, I read on the Allure forum about using microdermabrasion to help melasma and I just wanted to let people know that this might not be the best way. Remember, people with melasma tend to already have very reactive skin when it comes to pigmentation so microderms may be too aggressive in this case. Also microderms only temporarily strip the stratus corneum and you need to repeatedly strip the skin while using your pigment treatment so that it can properly absorb.

Feel free to write in with any questions!

All the Beauty Best,

Sara A. Dudley.

If only Pigment was your friend.

2009-05-22T11:22:00.001-04:00

Today’s post deals with the good, the bad and the ugly in pigment in celebration of the coming summer solstice. Cheers to long sunny days in summer dresses showing lots of glowing, healthy looking skin.

Pretty Pigment.

This part is dedicated to the pigment that you actually want, i.e. a tan. Until the day we go back to having pale skin as the beauty standard, tans are still very much in vogue but how do you get them safely? The unfortunate answer is that there is no real safe tan. A tan is your first indicator of underlying sun damage. Anything you’ve heard about getting a base or protective tan is misleading. Most tans will give you a SPF of 2 at best the same as about a wet t-shirt. And tanning salons are an absolute no go either. They emit a high concentration of UVA rays, which as we now know are the Aging Rays and can cause skin cancer. They have also been shown to compromise your immune system and are definitely not recommended for children.

All these no no’s lead to a very pale face though, which leads to one answer…SELF TANNERS. I have to admit to being personally inept at applying self tanners but I also was incapable of colouring inside the lines as a kid. After a little research, it would seem that there continues to be really only one ingredient that is the mainstay of self tanners called dihydroxyacetone or DHA. DHA interacts with amino acids on the outermost layer of the skin, called the stratus corneum, and causes a darkening of the skin over a period of 1-4 hours. DHA can be sensitizing for some and so formulators have also begun to use an ingredient called erythrulose but it does not produce as a deep a coloured tan. Erythrulose can also take up to 48 hours to develop so in combining the two ingredients some formulas can give a longer lasting result. DHA is a colourless agent so for those who would like an immediate glow effect you’ll need a formula that includes synthetic dyes like cochenille red, FD & C yellow 10 (if you are a green consumer though, ask if your products involved animal testing as dyes have a bad rap with PETA and the like).

Unfortunately, labels will not disclose how much DHA their products contain. Basically the rule of thumb though is build a tan’s formulas will only have a small amount (thus farther down on the label), formulas for fair skin will have slightly more and so on.

Since the base of all self tanning formulas are essentially the same, you just need to decide what add-ons you’re looking for. DHA has a distinct smell that most people dislike so you may consider some form of fragrance (if you absolutely must). Citrus smells are good at masking DHA. You can then find formulas that claim to be moisturizing, have added antioxidants etc. I would avoid using formulas that claim to have SPF’s in them as your sunscreen though as your sunscreen should never be a secondary consideration in your product. I have not come across any specific ingredient that will help to avoid streaking unfortunately- application is pretty key in that sense. If you are artistically inept, look for the build a tan formulas that will have the least amount of DHA.

Finally, our make-up artist, Angela G., gave me some application tips that may be helpful. 1. Use gloves (surgical gloves are better than kitchen ones clearly). 2. You should use a glycolic acid for your face or a lactic acid/glycolic acid for your body before application to exfoliate (preferably a couple of hours before). If you goof and get splotchy, you can also use either one to help correct. 3. We sell GlowFusion that can be paired with their Tanning Emulsion, which does help to prevent streaks. However, you need to apply the Emulsion immediately after the self tanner before it dries. This means going body part by body part. 4. Dedicate some time to this procedure and do not try to do it during commercial breaks for Grey’s Anatomy (that is my personal tip).

Up next…the Bad and the Ugly in Pigment…age spots, hyper-pigmentation, and melasma…oh my!

All the Beauty Best,

Sara A. Dudley

Answer to Irate Sunscreen User's Question

2009-05-20T11:36:00.002-04:00

Yes! I love it when people get indignant about sunscreens. As you really should be and if we are calling a spade a spade, I think you do need to point some fingers at the FDA and Health Canada. Maybe not the middle one but at least a really long ring finger. It’s also frustrating because it’s hard to get a straight answer to these fairly direct and simple questions.
When it comes to avobenzone- its initial use in sunscreens can be justified in that it was at the time of its approval in the US and Canada (roughly 1989) the only act in town. Before then, most sunscreens protected only against UVB. Avobenzone was a god send at that point.
Repeated studies in peer reviewed journals have shown that Avobenzone is not photo-stable. FYI: photostability with inorganic ingredients translates into this scientifically: Sunscreen Ingredient A molecule absorbs a UV photon and is transformed into an excited state. If Sunscreen A is photo-stable then after releasing the energy of the UV photon (in the form of heat), the sunscreen molecule returns to its original state and can continue to absorb UV photons. If Sunscreen Ingredient A is not photo-stable it is incapable of returning to its original state and can either no longer absorb any UV photons or can negatively interact with its surroundings to create Reactive Oxygen Species (and thus is photo-reactive, yikes!). Avobenzone needs to be stabilized with either Octocrylene, Titanium Dioxide, Tinsorb and/or Mexoryl SX.
So the question is…if we know this, why does the FDA/Health Canada not seem to know this? If they do know, why do they not regulate that no sunscreen should be allowed on the market without a photostable UVA protector?
1. The FDA/Health Canada are not the most transparent of government agencies. In Canada and the US, sunscreens are considered drugs and not cosmetics and this seems to give both regulatory agencies license to be even slower and autocratic in their decisions. A good example is the approval of Mexoryl SX. Mexoryl SX is a good medium range UVA protector and was used globally since around 1996 but only approved in the US in 2006. New ingredients need to file new drug applications, which in theory is a slow process. Meanwhile a lot of people in the industry grumble about special interest groups blocking new ingredients. Clearly public interest is not at the forefront or they would consider speeding things along. 2. The FDA is not good with deadlines and Health Canada likes to wait to see what the FDA has to say about things. It took the FDA ten years to amend the 1997 monograph and it is now two years late in passing the amendment.
In case you are wondering, the amendment does not actually require UVA protection, but will give designations for UVA protection. I can’t say absolutely though whether the designation will be able to represent the level of protection over time (i.e. whether UVA protection degrades). It depends on the methods of testing UVA they finally decide on.
I’m not hopeful though, especially after visiting the FDA’s website. In their FAQ section, they give an example mock-up of what bottles will look like with their new labeling laws. You’ll notice if you go to the link http://www.fda.gov/cder/drug/infopage/sunscreen/qa.htm#9, their mock bottle with a three star designation (for High protection against UVA) contains Avobenzone with Octinoxate (a combination proven to photodegrade within 60-90 minutes after being in the sun). It does not bode well.
To answer your last question, depending on your sunscreen’s formulation, it may not be just photo-unstable but could also be photo-reactive. In which case, reapplying after an hour will not safeguard you from the potential and continued production of reactive oxygen species. You’re better off to use a proven photo-stable combination like zinc oxide or the Mexoryls (SX/XL) and then use a good anti-oxidant product at night to counteract any reactive oxygen species that were produced while you were out and about. And in the end, you just have to be sun smart on your own.
Good questions Irate Sunscreen User!
All the Beauty Best!
Sara A. Dudley

The Skinny on Sunscreens, Part Deux

2009-05-08T12:52:00.007-04:00

In an effort to make reading your sunscreen label really easy, I thought I would do a simple alphabetical lexicon of popular sunscreen ingredients, include ideal concentrations you should be looking for, state whether they are a UVB, UVA protector, and any other relevant things you should know. Here we go:

Avobenzone (Parsol 1789): 3% concentration. UVA protector. Is not a stable ingredient and will break down when exposed to sunlight. Should not be used in formulas with Octinoxate. Can in theory be stabilized if combined with Oxybenzone and Octocrylene. Should be used in combination with another UVA protector as it offers marginal protection and does not span the full UVA spectrum.

Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL): 3-4%. UVA protector. A patented ingredient by L'Oreal. Has a synergistic effect when used with Mexoryl SX. Anthelios XL line in highest SPF's offer the ideal combination of both.

Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX): 3-4% concentration. UVA protector. A patented ingredient by L'Oreal. Offers medium protection but is better if combined with a 3-4% concentration of Mexoryl XL.

Homosalate: 5-15%. UVB protector. Provides margninal UVB protection, even in highest concentrations and should be used with other UVB protectors to provide an adequate SPF.

Octinoxate: 7.5%. UVB protector. A good UVB protector. Can be mildly irritating if not in an encapsulated version (unfortunately labels cannot distinguish between encapsulated and non-encapsualted).

Octisalate: 2-10%. UVB protector. Should be used in conjunction with other UVB protectors to get an adequate SPF.

Octocrylene: 2-10%. Primarily UVB, some UVA if in 10% concentration. Should be used in combination with other UVB protectors to get an adequate SPF. Is reported to stabilize avobenzone when used together.

Oxybenzone: 6%. Primarily UVB, some UVA. Oxybenzone is a photo-allergen and many especially those with sensitive skin may find it to be irritating. Is reported to stabilize Avobenzone and makes up one third of Neutrogena's patented Helioplex ingredient.

Tinosorb S/M: 5-10%. Both UVA and UVB. Not approved for us in the US. A good UVA protector (*to be noted: I have never used any products with Tinosorb and cannot speak to consistency/ texture issues).

Titanium Dioxide: 2-15%. If micronzied both UVA and UVB, if not micronized mostly UVB. Titanium Dioxide is considered a physical sun blocker. Should be used with Zinc Oxide or some other UVA protector. Excellent in mineral based make-up but can look pasty in some sunscreens if used in too high a concentration (nano versions of Titanium dioxide are not widely used).

Zinc Oxide: 7-20+%: Both UVA and UVB. High percentages of Zinc Oxide make for an excellent, truly broad spectrum sunscreen. Micronized versions can look white if used in a percentage higher than 7%. Nano versions can be applied to go on transparently. Labels cannot differentiate between micronized and nano so you need to consult other sales material. Also provides a nice anti-inflammatory (zinc used in diaper rash creams).

I've only included the most popular ingredients but feel free to write in with any that you may have found that are not on the list. I've also tried to list them by their most common names but some ingredients actually are known by several different ones.

Basically, when reviewing your bottle, check to make sure that 1. You do have some UVA protector included (most brands will load up on the UVB protectors). 2. Make sure that if you have Avobenzone on your label, you do not have Octinoxate. 3. If you do have Avobenzone, look for another UVA protector to get optimal UVA protection. 4. If your brand includes Oxybenzone, find one without it if you have sensitive skin and/or find it irritating.

We formulated our sunscreen with Nano Zinc Oxide and Encapsulated Octinoxate because we think they work the best but now you have some tools to decide for yourself!

All the Beauty Best!

Sara A. Dudley

The Skinny on Sunscreens, Part I

2009-04-29T14:51:00.003-04:00

We’ve just our first warm weekend here in Ottawa and a lot of pale faces are emerging but hopefully not before remembering to apply a sunscreen (you should actually be wearing one all year round- word to the wise). The problem though is that there is a lot of misinformation and confusion concerning sunscreens. Just when people were starting to get the message- ‘Wear a sunscreen’- the message had to go and get a lot more complicated.

As the article in the Ottawa Citizen shows (http://http//www.ottawacitizen.com/Health/Skin+care+essential+part+personal+health+regimen/1540166/story.html)- unfortunately those who are responsible for disseminating the message are not all on the same page. We have all been told not to use tanning oils, that an SPF of 4 is not adequate. We know that if our sunscreen smells like a pina colada perhaps it is not a ‘serious’ sunscreen. We know to reapply repeatedly. We know that to burn is bad. We do not know, however, that the SPF measurement on the bottle could actually be doing us a disservice. We constantly hear about the numbers game that is SPF but what we really need is to be rewired about the way we think of sunscreens and what it means to be protected.

I have fallen victim to this same misunderstanding before. I’m a sun zealot and I vacation down South frequently. Despite this- I felt like I was being sun smart by wearing sunscreens with SPF’s of 50-60 everyday and I was reapplying it frequently. It was only when CyberDERM began formulating its own sunscreen and I began researching that I realized that the SPF on my bottle was only half the picture (and not the better half either).

Here is the short story. We are exposed to two kinds of UV radiation. The trick to remembering the two is simple: UVA light Ages our skin, UVB Burns, both cause Cancer (thus the rule of ABC). Protection against UVA light is absolutely critical not only for cosmetic reasons but for safety ones as well. However, SPF only measures the amount of protection from UVB light and is not correlated to the amount of protection you are receiving from UVA light whatsoever. In other words, when I turned over my bottle of SPF 50 sunscreen, I realized I was using a brand of sunscreen that offered almost no UVA protection! Worse- I was staying out in the sun for longer periods of time at peak hours because I had a false sense of security.

Currently, both the FDA and Health Canada are coming up with a system to grade sunscreens on their level of UVA protection. They are running a little bit behind though. I would guess however that many sunscreens on the market today will have to consider reformulating once the new labeling laws do come out.

Your next logical question may be to ask then how do you choose a reasonably good sunscreen if an SPF is no longer a responsible indicator. Unfortunately, you cannot rely on the designation that many sunscreens use “Broad Spectrum UVA/UVB”. Both the FDA and Health Canada are also in need of regulating what that designation means precisely. Manufacturers are permitted to label their sunscreens as being broad spectrum as long as they offer a modicum of UVA protection. Many brands however fail to span the full length of the UVA spectrum or they offer very weak protection at best. The hard answer is that there is no easy way to look at the front of a bottle and know the quality of protection you are being afforded. You need to flip the bottle over and look at the ingredients listed as most ingredients protect against UVB only, some protect against UVA only, and even fewer span the entire range of both.

In Part II of this blog, I’ll go over which ingredients to look for and in what concentrations they need to be present in to be effective. The shocking news will not end here though. As a tidbit- did you know that the two of the most popular sunscreen ingredients can have negative reactions when they are exposed to…(you will not believe it)…sunlight? The quality of some sunscreens is mind boggling. Yet, until consumers know to ask for better, there is no impetus for manufacturers to change.

Perhaps that is why we never read about the dupe that is SPF. Until the FDA and Health Canada comes out with their own labeling system for UVA, you have to be a sunscreen sleuth to figure what constitutes a good sunscreen. It’s disheartening to think that all the work one does to treat your skin well (including cosmetics/cosmeceuticals, diet, and cosmetic procedures) is being undone the moment you walk outside with mediocre protection.

If you cannot wait until Part II, I suggest reading the Primer on Sunscreens that I wrote for our patients at our sister clinic Laserderm (http://www.cyberderm.ca/Media/Documents/SunscreenPrimer.pdf). Also- a non-profit group based in Washington DC has an excellent database that you can use to type in the name of our sunscreen and see what level of protection you are getting (http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/). You can also search for sunscreen active ingredients in case your brand is not available.

I’d encourage you to be proactive about finding an excellent sunscreen and I promise to help with any questions you may have.

Until Part II, all the beauty best (even if that is hard to come by).

Sara A. Dudley

Chemical Overload

2009-04-22T11:12:00.003-04:00

I once burned a patch of skin on my face so badly that it oozed for several days. I have no idea what I used to cause that reaction, mostly because I used to put a lot of things on my face. I just told everyone that I had burned myself with my curling iron because that seemed less embarrassing. Fortunately, events like that are rare and most things that we apply to our skin at worst will be irritating, at best- effective. I’m a person of necessity though now- and I wonder if 30, or 40, or 50 or 60 ingredients in any product are ever necessary.

So why does the beauty industry not catch on? To a certain extent, I think the trend towards organic or homeopathic products is a backlash to those overpowering lists on the backs of bottles. The word ‘chemical’ has been shamed by the massive amounts of company it tends to keep. It’s been misrepresented a bit though- plant extracts are chemicals as is water. Rather than dismissing chemicals, I’d rather formulators show a little bit of discipline instead. Choose chemicals that have been proven effective, put them in the right concentration. It’s not mystery science.

To a certain extent- it is the fault of us the users. It is not complicated to moisturize the skin. Yet many of us prefer thick, luxurious puffs of cream with the odd gold fleck and a whiff of fragrance. Those add-ons increase the ingredient list significantly. Sometimes, even brands that are “Committed to Dermatology” can slip up and include ingredients that Contact Dermatologists know are irritating but the public does not know. For instance Propylene Glycol tops a lot of ingredient lists but causes a reaction in 4% of the population. (Parabens can cause a reaction in less than 1%!) Or we rebel against the brands that our dermatologist offers us because the packaging is tantamount to a white jug and it’s called ‘something-Derm’ (just joking! Our name is chock full of sex appeal).

Also- not to draw the ire of Health Canada- but cosmetics/cosmeceuticals are regulated in a back-ended way. There are a few but a limited amount of rules that the industry has to abide by when formulating. The Hot list restricts the use of certain chemicals or the concentration that they can be used in but it is not extensive and really only covers ones that can pose a real safety concern. However, while Health Canada does limit its involvement with formulating, it has very clear rules about marketing claims that can border on semantics- I’m not complaining (yes I am). For example- an anti-aging cream can claim to “improve the appearance of fine wrinkles” but cannot claim to “improve fine wrinkles”. If you are a born litigator then the difference in language might be material to you- but for the rest of us, the distinction is a bit mute. Yet, this distinction is meant to be one of the few safeguards consumers have and it comes only at the end of developing the product.

I did a little bit of pharmacy sleuthing yesterday. I walked the aisles looking for moisturizers and cleanser that I liked based on their ingredient list-pen and paper in hand. Mostly I looked odd/like a shoplifter. I did find a few that I was lukewarm about but from a jam packed aisle I should have found plenty.

Finally, the following are some ingredients that are known irritants to look out for: Tea tree oil, Quaternium-15, ylang ylang oil, Vitamin E (alpha tocopherol or alpha tocopherol acetate), lanolin, propylene glycol and most fragrances.

As always, bring on your questions, even if they do not relate to this week’s post. Next week-sunscreens! Yes, the poll is a trick question.

All the Beauty best,

Sara A. Dudley

It is a brand new Beauty day.

2009-04-10T12:55:00.003-04:00

Welcome to CyberDERM's "What's What in Beauty" blog. In the course of developing and researching our own line of cosmeceuticals, I have come across hundreds of innovations and trends that simply take the process of beautifying to the next level. There are plenty of venues that discuss the newest mascara, the new spring look or the best conditioner for your money. But what about discussing products that actually make your eyelashes grow, or the latest advances in pigment technology for colour formulations or about how effective a conditioning agent ylang ylang actually is? At CyberDERM, we get excited about exploring the newest revolutions in Derma-Technology- yes, revolutions not just evolutions.

We are also pretty priviledged over here to have access to some formidable experts. So if you would like to discuss the safety of parabens(and we will), for example, we can bring in informed opinions that might give you a completely different perspective than what you were anticipating.

Each week we will discuss issues that sometimes relate to our own products (how could I resist), the latest medical and aesthetic devices that we use at our sister company Laserderm Medical Clinic for rejuvenation, but also just new products or ideas that I have come across that are unique and exceptional (I am excited about this new mascara that I am using but only because it has redefined the way mascara works).

I hope you will stay tuned and add your input. If you have ideas that you would like me to tackle, suggest them and I will scurry around to find you some answers.

Until then- all the beauty best.

Sara A. Dudley,
Executive Director
CyberDERM