In my experience, people tend to repeat
to themselves their skin type like it is their own personal mantra, “I have dry
skin. I have dry skin. I have dry skin.” It may be a conclusion that they came
to as a teenager and one that they subsequently have never challenged.
The fact remains that skin is as alive as you are. It’s dynamic and
will age, and can even change year to year.
There are a host of reasons for these
changes. Your skin reflects different life-stages from puberty, to
pregnancy to menopause. We see a lot of women who are confounded by their
adult acne when they managed to be relatively clear as teenagers (it’s most
likely red acne with the telltale sign being breakouts around the chin).
You also have to consider lifestyle changes. (starting to smoke, drinking
alcohol, moving to a new city with a different climate). Chronic and acute stress is hard on your
immune system and can cause your acne, psoriasis, eczema and rosacea to flare. Medications
can also dramatically alter your skin for years after you have taken them.
The most obvious example is Accutane, which temporarily shuts down your
oil glands in the skin and acne is in remission for 3-5 years. Others include-
the birth control pill Depo Provera and implants can cause cystic acne and medication
used for treating infertility can cause excessively dry flaking skin. The important point to note is that it is
always helpful to re-assess your skin periodically and tailor your skincare
routine accordingly.
The most basic litmus test for getting
a sense of your skin type is the oil-check:
• If even after you have washed your face you are oily by
noon, you have oily skin.
• If you notice in most pictures you are shiny right between
your eyebrows, you most likely have an oily t-zone and combination skin.
• If you feel dry all day, you could either be dehydrated,
rough or just have dry skin. The end result of all of these conditions is
the same, i.e. dry feeling skin but the causes are different. Dehydrated
skin is due to some external factor like over-stripping the skin or just not
drinking enough water. Generally dry skin is a hereditary condition and
probably something you have noticed for a long time. Rough skin is very
often confused with both of the other conditions and also commonly gets
mistaken with having sensitive skin. Rough skin is just a build-up of
dead cells and with gentle exfoliation will reveal softer, more hydrated skin.
Sensitive/dry skin normally feels more sore to the touch and can be
painfully cracked and broken.
With all skin types, there are certain
universal Do’s and Don’ts. A skincare professional can help create a more
tailored routine but if they suggest any of the following Don’ts, I would
consider them red flags:
• Don’t over-strip with abrasive scrubs. Physical
exfoliation like revolving brushes blindly remove living and dead cells and can
be overkill. I can always sense that someone has been indoctrinated into
the psyche of overkill when I suggest using a mild cleanser like Cetaphil and
they get this panicked look over whether their skin will truly be clean enough.
Great skin is not about removing every trace of oil and dirt in your
pores. Some trace amounts of oil in your skin are necessary. Cleansing
oils are becoming more en vogue every day and can be a nice option. Also,
regular use of alpha-hydroxy acids, specifically glycolic acid, can be a gentle
way of removing build-up for skin cells that are ready to be removed.
Only people with truly sensitive/cracked skin should avoid them.
• Do not tan to try and cover blemishes or acne scars.
It is true that the sun can dry the skin and alleviate acne but it is a
short term gain for long term trouble. Aside from the many medical issues
like cancer, tanning also creates a rather muddy looking complexion.
Beautiful skin reflects light and healthy, hydrated skin cells will help
with that.
• Do not think that thicker moisturizers means more hydration
I see a lot of older women especially applying the Nivea or Ponds type
cold creams to their faces in the belief that is the only way to hydrate
severely dry skin. Hydration comes from penetrating through to the
epidermis or protecting the skin to preserve your own natural moisture content.
Different ingredients will accomplish different things. The thickness of
creams has to do with the emulsifiers in the cream itself and it does not equal
hydration. They can also cause closed
comedones or milia.
I’ve attached a fun little quiz to help
further guide you. It is not necessarily the gospel on your skin type but
again gives some helpful indicators to look for. Just remember to do
periodic re-checks to make sure you and your skin are still on the same page.
Write in with any questions- us, CyberDERM girls, will do our best.
Karina T.
